Call of the wild
Monica Fernandes explores Kruger National Park in South Africa
The decision to visit Kruger National Park with our friends Peter and Mariola Menezes was one of the best my husband Nelson and I have made in years. The South African safari during our trip in October 2008 was truly memorable.
After an Internet search, Peter zeroed in on Nhongo Safaris run by a Rhodesian couple, Dean and Verity Cherry (www.spiralhorntours.co.za or www.nhongosafaris.co.za). Our decision to join their tour group proved to be very wise indeed.
Taking the anti-malaria medication two weeks before the start of our journey signalled our imminent departure for South Africa. Besides the information the Cherrys provided about the Park and its wildlife, we did our own research. Named after Paul Kruger, president of the Transvaal Republic, Kruger National Park was established in 1898 to protect wildlife. Extending over nearly 7,332 sq miles (18,989 sq km), it is home to 521 bird and 147 mammal species, which includes around 1,800 lions and 11,000 giraffes.
Landing at Johannesburg, we spent one night at the Cedar Avenue Lodge at Boksburg, near Oliver Tambo Airport. We wanted to take a leisurely stroll along Cedar Avenue a peaceful road lined with cedars but was warned it was not safe. Verity arrived in her SUV the next morning to take the four of us to Kruger National Park.
There were a couple of routes to the Park, one of them being a long scenic one. We opted for the shorter journey and reached our destination in a few hours. The first animals we sighted were impalas (medium-sized antelopes), which are the most common animal in the Park. We had imagined everything would be very verdant but most of the trees in the Sandveld mainly baobab were dry at this time of the year. We learnt the next day would be greener as we would pass the alluvial banks of Sabie River.
The Park had several camps with accommodation available to suit different pockets. We stayed in thatched round chalets that looked like rondavels, traditional round-shaped huts. There was an area earmarked for tents and caravans. Besides a restaurant, each camp had a shop where you could pick up souvenirs, literature on the Park and adaptors for electrical goods. Though all the camps were surrounded by high electric fencing to keep away wild animals, the place was teeming with baboons. We had to safeguard our food items!
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We set off on a safari early next morning and what a safari it was! We were three couples in the open vehicle. It was chilly and our woollens proved useful. Dean, a qualified game ranger, drove the vehicle and was an excellent guide. Besides the ubiquitous impala, we saw many types of antelopes. The big, grey kudu have an excellent sense of sight. While the females weigh about 175 kg and have a white ridge on the back and no horns, the males around 56 inches tall are about 45 kg heavier. In comparison, the cliff springers were small, dainty antelopes with hooves adapted for springing on rocks. The exquisite creatures drink water only during summer, getting moisture from the trees they graze at other times. Besides duikers and water bucks, we were lucky to spot the rare sable antelope. The endangered reedbuck is a prime target of carnivores. Nelson and I had seen a couple of wildebeests during an earlier visit to Nairobi National Park, but there were many more here. However, spotting the Big Five African lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard and rhino was the most satisfying experience in this game reserve. They are all very dangerous and attack with vengeance if they perceive a threat.
Though belonging to different tour groups, there was strong camaraderie among the rangers. Whenever a ranger spotted game, the location of the animal would be announced over the local radio. This, together with the fact that Dean drove 270 km that day, helped us see many animals and birds.
It was around noon when we saw a pride of lions four young lions and an old one distinguishable by its darker mane. Ambling down a path, they lay under a tree waiting for their prey. Our vehicles were just 20 ft away and they looked at the human circus ogling at them almost with disdain. It had become very hot but we had plenty of water. Lions dont have sweat glands and survive the heat by breathing rapidly. Contrary to popular belief, these stately animals work hard for their survival, managing to get their prey on an average of once in every eight to 10 attempts. Recently, several lions had died of tuberculosis caused by eating infected buffalos. This had depleted the lion population.
After our lion sighting, we stopped to allow a herd of elephants to cross the road. They lumbered in single file with the little ones walking between two big elephants. Instead of crossing in front of us, the leader suddenly decided to pass our vehicle. Dean warned us to keep very still so that they didnt feel threatened. We breathed a collective sigh of relief after the pachyderms passed within inches of our vehicle.
There are two species of rhinoceros in South Africa: the black rhino and the white rhino. We were surprised when Dean pointed out the white rhino as it was certainly not white! Unlike the black rhino which has a narrow pointed mouth, the term white a mistranslation of the Dutch word wijde, which means wide described the square-lipped white rhino.
We stopped for lunch at the picturesque Skukuza Camp on the banks of a river. Continuing on our safari, we saw zebras, leopards, brown spotted hyenas, cheetahs, cape buffalos (larger than their Indian cousins), giraffes, water hogs and a crocodile. The fastest animal on earth, the cheetah can run at a speed of 120 km an hour. Watching a giraffe drink from a waterhole was a strange sight. While oxpecker birds perched on its body and searched for ticks, the gawky animal knees bent outwards kept glancing from side to side to ensure there were no predators around.
The variety of birds was amazing. Besides plenty of helmeted guinea fowls, there were starlings, hawks and ground hornbills. We saw an African fish eagle and a couple of secretary birds the black-and-white birds certainly looked prim and proper!
It was almost time for the Park to close for the day when we found the road blocked by a herd of buffalos. The day visitors grew anxious and we turned around to reach our camp via another route. After resting for a couple of hours, we left at dusk for the night safari with our designated guide Joseph. Though it grew dark quickly and became difficult to spot animals and birds, we did see a spotted owl on the road, a mongoose, cliff springers, some kudus and, of course, impalas.
Approaching the camp, we heard the trumpeting of elephants on the rampage in the forest and saw the damage they had created when we were almost at the gate uprooted trees strewn across the road. It took some time for the trees to be cleared.
We left next morning, bidding a reluctant farewell to the birds and animals of Kruger National Park. Taking the long scenic route back, we reached Cedar Avenue Lodge in the evening after an enjoyable safari.
FACT FILE
When to go: The best season for game viewing is August to October.
Getting there: South African Airlines, Jet Airways, Emirates (via Dubai), Ethiopian Airlines (via Addis Ababa) and Kenya Airways (via Nairobi) operate regular flights.
Where to stay: A variety of accommodation is available ranging from lodges to five-star and boutique hotels. Check out www.tripadvisor.in or www.south-african-hotels.com
For more information, contact:
South Africa High Commission
B-18 Vasant Marg, Vasant Vihar
New Delhi - 110057
011-26149411/26149419
South Africa Honorary Consulate
225D AJC Bose Road
Kolkata - 700020
033-22470253
Indian High Commission
Johannesburg: 0027-11-4828484/5/6/7/8/9
Pretoria: 0027-12-3425392/97
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